Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Different kind of Christmas

The holidays will be different this year. There's just no getting around it. Forgetting for a moment the fact that we're living in a culture that doesn't observe Christmas, it's also a first for celebrating away from our families.  So, feeling a little down, I set out in search of a flower market that I had heard would be selling Christmas decorations. I wasn't expecting much, maybe a tiny snowman or a box of candy canes, anything to make the apartment feel more like home at Christmas.

We didn't know exactly where we were going.  Since it was more than an hour's trip away from the apartment I had dragged Joel out with me for the expedition. I had a general idea of which metro stop to take and from there I was relying on a rough translation of the words "flower" and "market" to get us there in a taxi.

We hail the first cab we see upon exiting the subway. We recite the prepared words we've studied that we think mean "flower market" and after a few minutes of confused arguing we get back out of the cab. Seeing that plan A didn't work (and we can't say we were surprised, really) we decide to phone a friend. We hail a second cab, more confident this time because we have a native Shanghai-er on the phone to translate for us. With a few rough grunts that indicate he has at least understood what we want we're off. Our friend told us to expect a 20 minute taxi ride, so when we get dropped off in the middle of the road not 5 minutes later we're a little wary. At any rate, with no other options to speak of we enter under the arch the driver is pointing to and find this:
The market
The arch. Not very promising is it?


Really loud birds.

The clump of white in the blue cage is a bunch of rabbits.

It's an animal market. Full of birds and dogs and rabbits huddled together for warmth. We search high and low looking for a secret entrance to the flower market that I know must exist, but to no avail.

We exited the market and walk around for another half an hour looking for any sign of it.  I'll admit that at this point I was a bit...distressed. It was one of those days when disappointment over something small instantaneously floods into something bigger, missing home, missing friends, feeling like you're completely lost in the middle of a huge city with no way to communicate with anyone. And just like that, I was crying in the middle of the sidewalk surrounded by Chinese people.

Honestly, it wasn't so much a woe-is-me cry as an I'm-furious-and-there's-nothing-else-I-can-do-about-it-right-now cry. Nevertheless, I took a few moments to get it out of my system, and set back towards the metro to go home. We must have asked a dozen people where to find the market and no one knew what we were talking about. Finally I happened on a tiny boutique store that had some interesting looking things in the window, so I slipped inside hoping to find something to make my journey worthwhile.

The shop owner was friendly, and I bought items that fit the bill. As we were leaving I decided to try one last time for the flower market. Low and behold- he knew! He said we were just five minutes away. [I had him write down the address in Chinese to be safe].

And we found this...

A winter wonderland of Christmas! They had giant trees and tinsel and snowflakes. I was in heaven! It was all completely ridiculous, of course, none of it quite made sense. Like, the angels would have bows and arrows or the snowmen salt and pepper shakers would all be for Pepper, no salt, but it was so much fun to explore. I got some ribbon and a couple of strings of lights to put on our little tree that mom brought over. And then there were the flowers...


Stalls and stalls full of fresh cut flowers waiting to be arranged! Entire shops full of orchids or other exotic plants. It was delightful. On the way out a grabbed some white ranunculous, a purple cabbage flower, a few stems of eucalyptus and some lavender wax flower to make a nice wintery arrangement. So here's the end result. Our "Christmas apartment."
Our tiny Christmas tree

Our hand painted Shanghai ornament, snowman, and assortment of hot cocoa from mom :)

New wintery votives and on the table behind you can see a glimpse of the flowers.
China or no China, Merry Christmas from the Coxes!

Saturday, December 11, 2010

The Twelve Hour Tour

Earlier this week we had the delightful surprise of a visit from Cliff. It's very difficult to surprise someone with an international visit, so I have to hand it to him on that. 

Originally he wasn't going to tell us that he was flying through Shanghai, because it was too sad for him to be so close and not be able to leave the airport (since he doesn't have a visa). Come to find out customs doesn't care about the visa if you're on a layover, even if it's overnight. They let you right on through! So it was our pleasure to host Cliff here for the twelve hours he was in Shanghai. Here are a few pictures from our twelve hour tour. 
.
There were blue lights everywhere downtown. Christmas? Perhaps.
In front of the Pearl Tower.
We ate at one of our favorite places. You can't tell it from our faces but we had a lovely time.
That's Cliff with part of our skyline.

Saturday, December 4, 2010

What do you mean Pluto's not a planet?


A few days back I found myself in a classroom with the task of introducing the letter U to my kindergarten group. The job consisted of me reading the "U" book that had a boy in his underwear (get it "u" for underwear) as the star which caused the kids to seize with fits of giggles. After the book they called out words that they thought started with "U", and it was my job to write them on the poster board and draw a picture so that they would know what the word actually said.

Now, obviously, I'm not an artist. My drawing skills are mediocre at best, but to elementary aged kids I might as well be Da Vinci himself. They go nuts whenever I draw things on the board. Just this Thursday I was in a third grade class and had to draw a scene that to an adult eye would have looked like a really pitiful attempt at a landscape, but it was all I could do to calm the group from all their shouting, "PLEASE Mrs. Cox, PLEASE autograph this, I want to take it home!!!!" "OH MY GOSH this is the best drawing I have ever seen in my ENTIRE LIFE!" Not being very familiar with eight year olds, I assumed, as anyone would, that they were mocking me until I saw that a couple of them were actually tearing up with excitement and no one was laughing. I swallowed my own laughter at their enthusiasm and brought the class back to order stopping briefly to treasure the moment of artistic praise that I know would never come again by anyone over the age of 9.  So after all the accolades, I was pretty proud of my pint sized illustration of the letter U, and so I took a picture to show Joel my masterpiece.  When he got home I had him look it over, expecting some snide remark about this being my days work versus his day of grading essays, but no such remark came.

Instead, after a few moments of quiet he finally said, "This is great, but if this is our universe, where is the other planet?"

Fully prepared for this I said, "Oh, they're all there. Don't you remember?  Pluto's not a planet anymore."

To which he patiently replied. "Yes, but you only have seven and there should still be eight."

Which lead me directly to sing my trusty planets song (ala 2nd grade, Mrs. Crawford's class. Catherine can back me up on this. She watched the sing-a-long science videos too) aloud to check: "My Very Educated Mother Just Served Us Pancakes!...See they're all there minus the pancakes."

"Nope. Where's Neptune?"

Neptune? Neptune! What in the heck is the point of a song to memorize the planets if you're going to leave one out. Thanks a lot Mrs. Crawford. Ok, I can't even joke about that. Mrs. Crawford was amazing; but seriously, consider revising the planet song.

More likely explanation: Mrs. Crawford taught the song with Neptune in it and this is the first sign that I am, in fact, loosing my marbles.  The shining light is that now an entire class of kindergartners sings the song the wrong way just like I do. Better luck next time, Neptune.

Monday, November 29, 2010

Nothing fancy

Between my parents visit and the hectic work schedule that followed (and let's be honest, the onset of my reading the Hunger Games trilogy in a five day span) I haven't had much time for blogging. Well, I suppose that's not entirely true, I've had time to spit a few words out but every time I've tried so far I've been so tired that I find myself trying to write posts so dull that I can't finish typing them out of sheer boredom.  So I'll spare you the in between bits that never made it to publishing and summarize:

We had a fantastic time showing my parents around Shanghai. They were the perfect house guests, and we loved every minute of having them here. We saw some sights and took them to our favorite restaurants and markets but the best part was meals together at home or out, because just like at home we're all happiest when we're sitting around a table together enjoying our food and the delightful conversation and easiness that can only be had with the people closest to your heart. We miss them already, but we've been busy enough that we didn't have to wallow around in sadness (that last part was for mom's benefit- did you like it?)

There is only one thing that I genuinely felt the need to share between then and now. It was one of those whoa China moments that stopped me dead in my tracks. You need a little back story to appreciate it properly though so I'll begin by saying that just this week I have finally overcome my fear of going to the grocery store. This is not due to some strengthening act on my part, but the sheer memorization of where the "scary things" lie so that I can now construct paths through the grocery store without having to encounter the fish that splash me in their tanks while their beheaded counterparts stare at me from the ice mere millimeters from their tanks, the stretched, dried flesh of various sea creatures menacingly dangling from the ceiling, and above all, the enormous, me-sized cuts of meat that hang from hooks smothering me with their scent as I pass by.

Just this week I've finally committed to memory where not to go in all four grocery stores that I frequent. [In this case, memorization is the only option, if you're not sure you can stumble right into the butchers block and then we're back to square one.] It can still get a little dicey when you absolutely have to walk by something horrific to get to the thing you need. In those instances I transition to plan B which allows my feet to go on the path but my eyes are not allowed to, say look left once you pass the plastic doors.

I'm feeling pretty good. I've successfully navigated all my shopping, and I decide to take a trip to my local Lianhua for a coke. (Our Lianhua is basically like a glorified Chinese Tigermart, but they don't sell fuel outside). I ran into a friend on the steps of the store and we stopped to chat for a minute when I did a doubletake at a bike parked in the street out front. There, in front of God and everyone, a large, black fish appeared to be writhing around in a plastic bag that was dangling precariously from the handlebars of a rusty bike. I stared more closely, sure that it couldn't actually be moving when it happened. The fish FLOPPED OUT of the bag like the killer whale at the end of Free Willy only to have gravity wrench him back into his waterless, plastic death suit. He flopped! Right in front of me! Good grief people. It just goes to show you, make as many grocery store maps as you like, but if you're in China-the food will sneak up on you sooner or later. Literally.

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

It's official!



We have company! We couldn't be more excited! Mom and dad arrived late last night for the first night of their ten day trip here. We have to head over to the police station to check them in this morning, so we're looking forward to that, obviously. Yay for visitors!!!

Monday, November 1, 2010

Orange you glad I didn't say banana?

Pre-post update: I rearranged my kitchen. I like it very much because it feels more open now that the fridge and tower of appliances aren't crowding my work space. Also, a few of you had asked about the size of my amazing flower fridge so here's a picture with me as a reference.
My potted basil and rosemary were a housewarming gift from my dear friend Liz.
My two burner stove that works about 37% of the time.

Post:
I knew before we came that Halloween wasn't a global holiday, but I didn't realize that even among Westerners, Halloween is kindof a nonevent.  To be honest, without all the overwhelming signage and the creepily cute seasonal section at Target to remind me it was coming I had almost forgotten it altogether.

My first cross cultural faux-holiday encounter occurred when I stumbled upon a "Halloween" section at the Carrefour supermarket.  Groups of Chinese people were standing around staring at the various items for sale. Some were poking at the costume masks. Several were picking up the over-sized gourds and fake cobwebs with looks of sheer bewilderment on their faces.  Almost everyone was taking pictures with their phones. 

I'm not a huge fan of Halloween, so I didn't feel like I was missing much this year in terms of dressing up, but I do have one Halloween tradition that I couldn't pass up. The traditional Halloween meal.

What? You've never heard of it? Well allow me to explain.

Every year at Halloween I make a meal out of predominately orange food...cupcakes that have been colored orange with orange frosting with candy pumpkins on top, cheezits, a bowl of m&ms with only the orange ones, or the same of reecies pieces, carrots, macaroni and cheese, you get the idea. Nothing has to "go." It's a meal of non sequiturs.

The only real rules are that you 1. absolutely must drink Orange Fanta (Sunkist can be substituted in rural areas of the US), and 2. there must be rice krispee treats. "But those aren't orange?!" Pipe down! I make the rules!  It's melted butter and marshmallowy goodness. Get with the program.

Please note the Snoopy Marshmallows (they're vanilla flavored).
For the last seven years I have not strayed from this plan. So, even in the face of an overpriced import market and a shocking lack of orange food coloring I knew I had to find a way. After a bit of searching we found this "Whole Grain Organic Gluten Free" rice cereal.  Not so gluten free now, are you? (sorry, that was for the cereal. It just looked so pretentious in its box I had to say something).


Orange, orange. check, check.
And here is what we came up with. I would have taken a picture of the krispee treats but they went straight from the pot into our tummies. (Don't judge- I only made a half batch because our ingredients were scant, although I have been known to eat the entire pan in a single sitting). In any event...Happy Hoolawoon!
I see you eying my table top "decor." Yes I made those in elementary school art last week.

Monday, October 25, 2010

Plaid is this year's pink.

It's been a pretty normal two weeks here for J and myself.  I've been staying busy with sub jobs (thank goodness) and J has been working hard at school. I recently took on an after-school job as a tutor to help add some stability to my schedule, so every afternoon Monday through Thursday I tutor an eighth grader here at the apartment.

My student, we'll call him Paul, is a fourteen year old eighth grader, repeating the grade to switch over from an all Chinese school into an all English school. He tested on the third grade reading level for English, and having subbed in the third grade this week I can attest to the correctness of that diagnosis. (Honestly, my third graders have a pretty good lead on this guy, but they do go to an uppity kind of school so I'm giving him a break in the comparison).

Now, obviously Paul is brilliant to be able to make the transition at all. He's still excelling in all his non-language based courses like math and science, but that being said, his English is awful (a word he doesn't know-but I'm not judging. My Chinese is virtually nonexistent). We've had some pretty hilarious conversations. It takes us about an hour and a half to go over the twenty vocab words he gets each week. Words like "detriment" and "oblique" take a bit of explaining. He's doing his best.

I've learned a lot from Paul these past two weeks. For someone with such a small English word bank, he still manages to wax philosophical in his own way.

Important observations

First: He wears plaid shirts exclusively, usually in shades of red and black. On what I can only assume is laundry day he has a bright green tee shirt that he subs until the plaids are good to go.

Second: He always runs up the stairs to our apartment (listening to the sound of the thuds, I think he averages three stairs a stride) so he arrives at each lesson completely out of breath.

Third: He laughs every time he reads a word he doesn't know, or when he learns the meaning of a new word, or when he finally understands the meaning of what you're trying to explain. Even if you're talking about something that isn't funny at all. (Last week we "discussed" poverty, martyrdom and the plague...yep. he laughed right through).

Fourth: He is very, very Chinese.

In our first meeting, I was trying to ascertain the most difficult thing about learning English in his view so that I could help him improve. He managed to explain that the hardest part of the process was making the decision to commit to the language, because he knew that becoming fluent with a language means taking on a portion of that language's culture, and he wanted to make sure that I knew that he really despises Western culture, its values, its slang. In essence he was holding back because he didn't want to become more like...me.  He finished by saying that in the end, he knew his future would be vastly improved by learning English so he had made an intellectual decision to plunge forward with English studies, but it made his heart ache.

He wishes he said it like that-what he really said was something like "emotions- no, but intell...ect?" (pointing at his head) understand this is more good."

While slightly aghast at his candor, I was sincerely impressed with his insight. (And yes, he now knows to say "better" instead of "more good" in case any of you were cringing).  It's true that once you learn a language well enough to let your thoughts roam about in its words, you naturally give a part of yourself over to it. How else could you ever understand metaphors or, harder still, idioms? All this coming from a boy who doesn't know what a comma is, or the words "assignment" or "essay" (yes, we started working on those first). Sheesh.

Sunday, October 17, 2010

The one with the beach from The Beach.


For the record, I hate ferries, or boats of any kind, really. It always happens that just enough time passes between the ferry trips of my life that I forget this fact only to realize it when I'm already out at sea where I have no option but to suffer through the trip til we reach land.

So in the future, if it comes up, remind me that I don't want to take the ferry. I'll be thankful.

Upon disembarking from our ferry, we arrive in Ko Phi Phi late in the afternoon with no place to stay, so our first task is to find a hotel. We'd scoped a few out online, but we have no clue how to get to them on the island. We see a free longtail boat at the pier to take us to one of our prospective places, so we decide to check it out first. After a brief inspection, I give hotel "A" the thumbs down, and we set off back towards town in search of a new place.

Since we arrived at our location by boat, we had no option but to follow the coastline back toward the pier. Unfortunately, the beach was only nice and sandy for about half of the journey and a series of rocky entrapments for the other half--if you're picturing giant, slippery rocks with no handholds and tons of terrifying looking black creatures scurrying in and out around your feet you'd be dead on. J and I were both wearing our big backpacks and balancing our carry ons as best we could while we climbed. We were slipping and sliding our way across the rocks when the inevitable happened, J's feet went out from under him as he attempted to cross a particularly treacherous rock. Backpacks and carry on went in separate directions, as did his left foot, which struck one of the large rocks, and the rock hit back. Hard.

Poor J still had to walk a really long way to get into town, through the saltwater and the sand, which isn't fun on an open wound. He left a nice trail of blood behind us, like Hansel and Grettle, vampire edition.  We finally found a hotel to settle into that was located two doors down from the island clinic, and the doctor there was wonderful. He was so friendly, and we assume he had some kind of medical background.
He's splinting the toe. Very official.

Even though J wasn't supposed to get his foot wet, we still went snorkeling on the last day of our stay. We rigged up this high tech system to block out the Andaman sea.

It didn't work, obviously, but at least we tried.
Joel was quite a celebrity during our stay in Ko Phi Phi. I tried to get him to tell people that the bandages were from a shark attack, but he wouldn't. Anyway, on our snorkeling trip we went out for about 5 hours on a little longtail boat and saw all these beautiful islands and bays, including Maya Bay, the island paradise where they filmed "The Beach" (with Leo Dicaprio).

The Beach

Panorama from the beach looking out on the bay. In the movie it looks like those rwo rock cliffs close in the bay, but they don't.

Views from the boat...





We flew back through Bangkok (after a second installment of the dreaded ferry) on our way home and spent the night at a hotel close to the airport for convenience. Little did we know there was an all-out bazaar waiting for us in the parking lot. I'm happy to report that we were the only Caucasian people in premises, and that people gleefully and openly laughed when they saw us walking through the stalls. We amassed a feast for our dinner from about eight different vendors who all seemed delighted to have us as patrons. We arrived home very late on Saturday night, and have been enjoying being here in what's starting to feel more like a home, since then.




Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Legends of the Hidden Temple

Just in case you were worried that I might be contemplating the undertaking of some epic blogging feat for our trip- a post for every day we were gone in full detail- I wanted to clear the air and say I have no intention of doing any such thing.

Now back to Siem Reap. We got up early Saturday morning and went to breakfast on the rooftop bar of our restaurant where we enjoyed the best freshly baked baguette either of us has ever had. Didn't see that one coming. [sorry France, I still love you.]

So we knew that our hotel was relatively close to Angkor Wat- probably a 10 minute drive- so I decided it would be fun to rent bikes for the day and explore the temples that way.  In case you aren't familiar with Angkor Wat, it's an entire ancient city full of temples that are spread out over a...really big space? [wishing I'd bought one of those handy guidebooks right about now...].

Anyway, even Lonely Planet told us we couldn't take in much if we were just walking so bikes it was! We're adventurous. We like exercise! And who cares that I haven't ridden a bike since I was in elementary school [yes, literally]; The "It's like riding a bike" thing is an expression for a reason, right?

We rent our bikes from the hotel. They're a little rusty, but it's not a big deal. The real problem is that they can't adjust any of the seats on the bikes to be short enough for me [darned Europeans- I promise you, every backpacker you'll see in SE Asia is European and they're all gigantic. Even the lady Europeans could eat me for lunch-they're that huge] so I have to kind of jump off the bike to one side when I need to stop since my feet can't touch. Oh well, I'm game.

We set off, and I very quickly realize that I've made a horrible mistake. I don't remember ever riding a bike now that I'm on one in the middle of the street and cars and motorcycles are whipping around me. I ask J how far it is, and he doesn't know. After a good while we stop for directions and realize we're going the wrong way and the street that we need to take to get back on course is only moderately paved. I'd rather have dirt road than slimly paved: there are so many potholes you can't avoid them and after another ten minutes (each one of which I'm sure will be my last) of bouncing clumsily down the backroads, something the locals were finding vastly amusing [that and my hop-to-the-side/breaking-dismount], I told J I wasn't so much feeling the bikes anymore.

And like an angel straight from heaven Jieh (Gee-uh) came to our rescue. He loaded our two bikes onto his tuk-tuk, took us back to the hotel to drop them off, then carted us straight back to the temples and chauffeured us all day long around Angkor Wat. Lord love him. At least I tried (right, Uncle Doc?)

Guilty.
And this is what we saw:


View from the top of one of the major temples.





Incredible old trees have taken over this temple.

I don't know how it stays like that. It doesn't seem structurally sound.
A friendly visitor.





The most impressive thing about this picture is the fact that I climbed those stairs.
After a day at the temples we headed back into town for dinner and a trip to the Night Market.  We loved Cambodia. It's my new favorite country. The next morning we left to do the same taxi/bus trip in reverse to make it to Bangkok in time to catch our flight to Phuket.

This dish is the specialty of Siem Reap. It's fish served in a bowl of banana leaves in a coconut sauce.